Gundam Model Kit Advice. (Coloring the clear pieces.)

even though i deal more into military models, military models are the ones that require the most weathering/battle damage precision. well, for me personally anyway. i go for realism instead of brand new look.
for weathering. there are quite a few avenues you can go. my first attempt at doing weathering was using pastel artist chalks. in an artists store, there isnt a single color that you cannot find for creating dust and rust. or even black for fume residue or the black around a damaged area. these can be applied with a paint brush. here is an example of how chalks look on a model i have done...take note of how the bolts and hinges on the side look.
100_0214.jpg


drybrushing is another way of creating rubbing and wear. here is a good video that shows how drybrushing can bring out good weathering detail and detail in general.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcHS6GiQtqs&feature=related

the second way of doing this is by using a "wash". this is basically a highly diluted paint that is applied on crevasses. bolts, hinges, etc.
here is how to do a good "wash"
http://www.hlj.com/guides/wash.html

basically, what a wash will do is give a dirty, look to parts that would hold dust around them. also, they provide alot more depth to a model. really makes parts stick out.

for damage, there are a couple options. reproducing a part in metal sheets. and causing damage to them. you can also use sandpaper in a very concentrated spot to form thinner plastic. you have to sand the inside of the model piece. once it is thin enough, you can take the tip of a pencil or something similar to punch through that part of the plastic. this will give the look of damage from something such as a rocket or almost anything else.

also, once you have gotten the hang of alot of the weathering techniques, you could also try moving onto oil paints. they take ALOT more practice. however, they can be manipulated alot to give the look of fading from one color to another. they give a much softer look. i mostly use oil paints for something that has a fleshy look or to something that would be fabric. even instances such as black oil residue.
here is what oil paints look like ...with these, you have the ability to blend light and dark colors to create a good fading to allow for highlights and lowlights. this is because of how long it takes for the paint to dry. very easy to manipulate, notice on these, the depth of the creases and folds.
IMG_0694.jpg

IMG_0716.jpg


only other, good way, of creating fades is by using airbrush. that takes alot of work to master though.
 
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Finished my 00 with Riser! Will take pictures as soon as I can! :D
 
When you get the PG Zeta, tell me how it is. I want to try a Master Grade next!
 
The old PG line is pretty disappointing as far as details and proportions go. My MS-06S can't hold any weapons due to the bad locking system and some parts just feel flimsy. Inner frame is cool and all but the old PGs just can't match the new MGs as far as coolness goes. The newer PGs are leaps and bounds better. I am of course referring to Strike, Astray Red Frame, and 00, even the Wing zero had glaring problems.
 
I have a few on stand-by, but I really dont want to touch them since they are more uncommon Mobile Suits. All of which are MG, Guncannon RX-77-2, RX-78[G]Ez, ZakuII Igloo ed. (I dont want to touch that.), Dom Igloo ed (Oh man it looks so kool), MG Crossbone KA ed (I want to build it but I fear that I will break something.) and a PG Gundam MKII Titan black.

Anyone have any tips for getting the pieces out of the grids with little dmg? I have been using an Exacto knife but it's gotten dull and I fear dmg on my better kits.

I think I will try to paint some of my HGs... since they are easy to replace.
 
I use nail clippers after I rip them off the tree, they were designed to be removed via force, after that its sanding as much as you care to.
 
The only problem I have with sanding is that not very good at it and I end up scratching the surface of the pieces. That's how I f'd up my Kampfer.
 
with sanding, what you want to do is use a very fine grain paper. when i say very fine, its almost to the point where it isnt a rough surface paper at all. what i do when it comes to sanding is use a razor or other sharp edged knife, scrape off a majority of the mold creases and/or sprue marks.
once i have most of the impurities scraped off, i use a 320 or a 400 grit paper to make all of the surfaces even. then i will finish it off with a 600 grit to smooth out the surfaces as if it wasnt sanded.
problem with this method is, you now HAVE to paint every part of the model. a primer coat is needed as well. however, if every piece of the model is painted, the outcome is much nicer. if sanded properly, you wont see any sanding marks.
 
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